Welding Gloves

Match the glove to the process

Stick welding throws the most heat and the most spatter. You want heavy split cowhide, a long gauntlet cuff, and an insulated lining. Dexterity barely matters because the electrode holder does not need fine control.

MIG sits in the middle. Plenty of spatter and sustained heat, but you are handling a gun and adjusting work more often. Split cowhide with a lighter lining is the usual answer, and most shops standardize here first because MIG gloves cover the widest range of jobs.

TIG is the opposite problem. Low spatter, low heat, but you are feeding filler rod by hand and you need to feel it. Thin goatskin or kidskin, unlined, with a short cuff. A heavy MIG glove on a TIG job means bad welds and a welder who takes the gloves off.

Buying one glove for all three is the most common mistake in a welding PPE program. It costs more in rework than the second SKU would have cost in stock.

Leather types, and what each is for

Split cowhide is the workhorse. Thick, heat resistant, abrasion resistant, and cheap. It stiffens with heat cycles and it is not comfortable, which is the trade you make for protection.

Grain cowhide is the outer layer of the same hide. Smoother, more flexible, better feel, less heat tolerance. Good for MIG and general fabrication.

Goatskin is thin, strong for its weight, and stays supple. It is the standard TIG material because it lets you feel the rod. It will not survive stick welding.

Pigskin breathes well and stays soft after getting wet, which suits outdoor and damp work where cowhide would dry out stiff.

Deerskin is the softest and most expensive. Precision TIG work only.

Cuffs, stitching and linings

Cuff length is protection for the forearm. A four to five inch cuff suits TIG and light fabrication. Longer gauntlets protect against overhead work and heavy spatter, and they should go over the jacket sleeve, not under it, so nothing falls inside.

Stitching is where cheap gloves fail. Kevlar thread survives heat that melts cotton or nylon, and a welded seam that opens is the end of the glove regardless of how good the leather is. Check the thread before you check the price.

Linings add heat resistance and comfort. Cotton is standard. Foam or wool liners extend the time you can hold hot work but add bulk. Unlined gloves are for TIG.

Buying welding gloves for a shop

Welding gloves are consumable. A stick welder can burn through a pair in weeks. Budget for replacement rather than treating them as durable equipment, and check them at the start of a shift for holes, hardened palms and split seams.

Most shops do well stocking two SKUs: a heavy cowhide gauntlet for stick and heavy MIG, and a goatskin TIG glove. Order both by the case. Send us your process mix and headcount and we will size it and quote volume breaks.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between MIG and TIG welding gloves?

MIG gloves are heavier cowhide with a lining, built for spatter and sustained heat. TIG gloves are thin goatskin and unlined, because you need to feel the filler rod.

Which leather is best for welding gloves?

Split cowhide for maximum heat resistance, goatskin for dexterity, pigskin for damp conditions, deerskin for precision work. There is no single best leather, only the right one for the process.

How long do welding gloves last?

Weeks under heavy stick welding, months under light TIG. Replace when the palm hardens, a seam opens, or you can feel heat through the leather.

Should the cuff go over or under the jacket sleeve?

Over, always. A cuff tucked inside the sleeve funnels spatter straight onto the forearm.

Are welding gloves cut resistant?

Leather resists abrasion well but is not rated for cut protection. If a job involves both welding and sharp material handling, keep a pair of ANSI rated cut resistant gloves alongside them.

Do you sell welding gloves in bulk?

Yes. Case quantities with volume break pricing for shops and distributors, plus single pairs with no minimum order.